3 months ago
3 months ago
Literally, « work in pieces », patchwork is the art of making something new out of something old. A brilliant illustration of Anglo-Saxon pragmatism, it is an idea as simple to understand as it is impossible to translate into French. Yet the technique is as old as the world: reusing scraps of fabric to make blankets or clothes.
Colourful assemblies, blends of patterns and landscapes, we reuse, recycle, take back, repair. In this optic of the « world of tomorrow », of committed fashion, of sustainable manufacturing, what could be more modern than recycling or upcycling pieces by assembling them for a new use? Patchwork, constantly reinvented, is an eternal guest in the spirit of the times.
Constantly revisited in line with technical innovations in textiles, patchwork was an inexhaustible source of inspiration for many designers through various trends until it became furiously fashionable in the 1970s. Today, it is once again invited on the catwalks of the haute couture houses Louis Vuitton, Dolce Gabbana and Vivetta.
The young London designer of Indo-Nigerian origin Priya Ahluwalia is campaigning for a more sustainable and less uniform fashion industry. She is strongly inspired by her cultural background and reproduces the cuts of the clothes worn by her family in the 90s. Asymmetrical assemblages, mismatched fabrics and juxtaposed patterns are key elements of her unique creations. A singular style that gives a new revival to abandoned, forgotten or discarded clothes.
Christelle Kocher and Coralie Marabelle have in common that they are both at the forefront of French fashion and have an assumed penchant for patchwork. The former brings out the seams of the multiple patches on Koché’s colourful silhouettes. As for Coralie Marabelle, she is inspired by the collage work of artist Tracey Emin to shape her patched scarves, shirts and cushion covers.
Both Acne and A.P.C. have developed their identities on in-house lines. A great opportunity to give a new life to the fabrics of their old collections. Acne Studios presented limited interior pieces created from their iconic scarves. A similar style exercise led by Jessica Ogden and Jean Touito for A.P.C. with the A.P.C. Quilts « Round 11 » composed of graphic and colourful patchworks.
Patchwork reaches the wall with the creations of Lucia Sellier. Her landscapes of upcycling materials are hand-made compositions from scraps of fabric. Unique pieces designed as contemporary tapestries, made from randomly collected materials from fashion houses, fabric editors, recycling companies… They are the result of a creative and committed approach giving a new value to unused scraps of upholstery fabric. Once collected, these fabrics are cut by laser and assembled by collage to form a coloured landscape.
The Californian artist Adam Pogue works on assembling, mending and combining fabrics. For the Commune label, he was inspired by Korean pojagi (traditional patchwork technique) and imagined pillows with a singular cachet. They are all made from vintage Japanese fabrics found at his favourite retailers and when he used to go to flea markets.