Styles
1 month ago
If the charms of « néo-bollywood » are catching on in the West, the opulent orientalism of the maharajas, kings of all excesses, is also making a comeback. From the great French jewelers (Cartier, Boucheron) to contemporary design studios (EBUR, Darren Jett) and new Indian fashion labels (Rescha, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Raw Mango, Tigra Tigra), all are celebrating a taste for unbridled pageantry.
The lavish world of the Far East can be explained by the resurgence of dashing opulence in the face of declining quiet luxury. The much-publicized wedding of wealthy heirs Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant in Bombay was a case in point. These neo-maharajahs have retained their predecessors’ taste for excess, flaunting their wealth from Rajasthan to Maharashtra.
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Berceau
Jaipur
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Prescripteur
Maharadjah
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Pré-requis
Richesse
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Style
Opulent
The maharajahs, from royalty to businessmen and women
Portrait du maharajah d’Indore par Bernard Boutet de Monvel
Whatever their religion, maharajahs (great Indian kings and monarchs) were as opulent as they were extravagant. From the 18th century onwards, these princes were the mainstay of British India, and they remained the talk of the town well into the 20th century, living a gilded life in Europe, feasting in French palaces and taking chests full of precious stones to the jewelry shops of Place Vendôme to transform them into sumptuous ornaments.
Today, a new generation of maharajahs and maharanis is back in the media spotlight. Whether members of the former royal family of Jaipurn, like polo player Sawai Padmanabh Singh, or heirs to businessmen like Isha M. Ambani (daughter of Mukesh Ambani, India’s richest man): India’s great wealth continues to assert its influence and taste throughout the luxury industry.
Anant Ambani et Radhika Merchant accompagnés de leur famille durant leur mariage
This summer, it was Ambani’s son, Anant, who married Radhika Merchant, media personality and “daughter of”. Dubbed the “wedding of the century”, the event is said to have cost $600 million and attracted worldwide attention. In addition to the presence of Kim and Khloe Kardashian and their film crew for The Kardashians, businessmen, artists and international media such as the New York Times and the BBC were invited.
In Rajasthan, the blessed land of the maharajahs, palaces can be counted in their hundreds.
The state of Rajasthan (etymologically “land of kings”) is home to some of India’s finest architectural gems. Between 1929 and 1943, maharajah Umaid Singh of Jodhpur built one of the world’s largest residences here, the Umaid Bhawan Palace, with no fewer than 347 rooms. Today, a plethora of these former maharajahs’ villas have been transformed into luxury hotels and continue to showcase India’s heritage.
Powdery shades and bright reds, Italian marble, French walnut, checkerboard patterns and lush ceramics, Versailles-style and Arab gardens, Art Deco style, European modernism and memories of the Mughal Empire, elephant sculptures and crystal chandeliers… Indian palaces cultivate pomp and magnificence.
Saffron Vadher & Radhika Nair pour Vogue India au SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace © Greg Swales
Indian fashion returns to traditional garb
Raw Mango © Reportage photo Tenzin Lhagyal pour Vogue
In Italy, Alessandro Michele drew inspiration from Indian codes for his latest show, with embroidered bandhgalas (Jodhpuri costume), paisley prints, ankle chains, fabrics inspired by sherwanis (long-sleeved coats)… Indian fashion houses are also stepping up their game (CUCCULELLI SHAHEEN, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Raw Mango, Rescha). They are returning to traditional garments and finery, inspired by the wardrobes of the great Indian families.
India, the pearl of fine jewelry
The treasures of maharajas and maharanis have always fascinated jewellers. Since ancient times, India has been the world’s leading supplier of diamonds. In 1927, the Maharaja of Kapurthala entrusted Cartier with the transformation of his emerald collection into a turban crown, on the occasion of his golden jubilee. In 1928, it was Boucheron’s turn to create the largest special order in the history of Place Vendôme for the Maharajah of Patiala. These exceptional creations continue to inspire the great houses, which pay tribute to them in their collections.
Kate et Edwina Sharma, La Chronique des Bridgerton, Saison 2 © Netflix
Pièces Cartier © Charlotte Krieger pour AD Middle East 2
Doupion, wild silk and satin fabrics are in vogue in today’s interiors
Manure Room, Ayrburn par Alexander & Co en Nouvelle Zélande
